Monica’s dissertation paper

Vogue - Nippon


print screen

the website i bought it from (£14.07)

http://www.newsstand.co.uk/?Module=Search&Str=vogue%20nippon

You will be sent the next issue available of each magazine ordered. If the next issue is within 7 days of your order we may not be able to send it, in which case your first issue will be the following one. Newsstand should receive magazines on their onsale date and endeavours to post them out to you by first class post on the same day on day.

two issues of british vogue to compare the type of photography with in the magazine. mainly i want to gain an understand of the ethnic diversity of models that appear in the british edition of vogue, below are images taken from two copies one from june 09 and the other from jan 09

second vogue book

first vogue book

my images from british vogue.. and the information i collected from the magazine

- what type of models appear in the magazine
- the ratio between white, black and oriental

Film by Nick Knight




whenever i ask to use blacl models i am given excuses such as "black models are not aspirational in some makets" or "they do not relfect the brands values." normally, however, no reason is given. Nick Knight


http://www.showstudio.com/project/politicalfashion/season2/2008-07-28

Torture Garden: Body Probe - Mutant Flesh and Cyber Primatives v. 2 (Paperback)

book with photograph of Devon Aoki - photographed by nick knight on behalf of yohji yamamoto


book information
The Torture Garden follows up its first, club-based book with the sequel Body Probe, an anthology of interviews, features and images exploring the boundaries of the human body at the edge of the new millennium.

Contents include: David Cronenberg, Hermann Nitsch, Chapman Brothers, Orlan, Stelarc, Ron Athey, Della Grace, Nick Knight, Alex Binnie, plus alien abduction, sex in space, medical fetishism, robot art, mutation in fashion, self-made freaks, the cybernetic body and S/M art.

print was originally created for the 20th issue of visionaire

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1840680040/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

Max Vadukul and Yohji Yamamoto

Working once again with Max Vadukul, the first photographer to create the now seminal Yohji Yamamoto womenswear catalogues in the 1980s, these two 'Coming Soon' films utilise the innovative medium of motion image to show off Yamamoto's second line's casual yet elegant sportswear through the exuberant energy of contemporary dance.

researching images nick knight has taken for yohji yamamoto i stumbled across this piece of text about max vadukul, it so turns out i used to work for max's brother kam Vadukul in a small DIY store in Londons south east.

i could possibly get the contact informtion on Max Vadukul and gain some strong primary researh on my quest for western and eastern influences.


video available to watch here http://www.showstudio.com/comingsoon

information from http://www.showstudio.com/archive/date/desc/20

yohji yamamoto by nick knight

Yojhi Yamamoto

is one of the most important and influential fashion designers working today.
Yamamoto established his own label in 1971, holding his first show in Tokyo in 1977. By the time he had made his Paris debut in 1981, along with his girlfriend at the time, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, his label was already a commercial success back in Japan.

http://www.top-fashion-designers.info/yohji-yamamoto.html

Nick Knight

Nick Knight is one of Britain's most innovative and influential photographers and image makers. He has pushed the boundaries of commercial and editorial photography and collaborated with leading names in contemporary art, design, music and fashion. As Director of SHOWstudio he has recently produced on-line collaborations with fashion creatives.

informstion from the V&A website.
http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/photography/photographerframe.php?photographerid=ph001



Knight has been contracted to british vogue , whilst also photographing for magazines such as dazed and confused, i-D, the face andvisionaire, aswell as for fashion an advertising projects for clients including alexander mcqueen, calvin klein, christian dior, levi strauss, yohji yamamoto and yves st laurent.



fashion as photograph edited by eugenie shinkle (book) "page 207"

fashion as photograph page 150

unknown models may now be linked to a newly working models identification to gain the surplus value of that models success. not all models however are framed in these ways. the need and recognition of nationilised shorthand depends on the models racial background and the market that he or she is working in. for example, in new york national descriptors say very little about asian models. while i was at the agency, we recieved only a handful of castings specifically requesting japanese, chinese,or korean models. when we did they were exclusivly from either non-us clients or for use in non-us media. black and white model casting requests on the other hand were rife with eleborate colour descriptions and national modifiers bound up in racial hierarchies. whether it was london beat, brown skinned bollywood or black black black these requests quickly indexed general facial features, skintone, hair type and colour. in addition to the market and racial background of the model, the clients own identity also determined the use of these terms. while learning to book, i was coached about certain client's racial and sexual preferences. agents use this kind of industry gossip garnered from models debriefings and other types of buzz - alongside careful study of clients' visual work to match models to clients. in this way the development of racial, national and regional types in the casting process is highly contingent, and can shift from one client to the next.

- yohji yamamoto and nick knight – who are they and how do they promote to the west/east.

- Nippon vogue and british vogue – make comparisons as far as the type of model is concerned.

- Monica’s dissertation paper, available at the library. Make use of the bio, websites and resources to compliment my study.

- maria jose qurra asthetics?

- susan sontag – on photography

- the visual culture reader Nicholas mirzoeff

- need visual examples of what im talking about

- jean paul gaultier ready to wear show 1999

- also look at xuly-bets 1999 spring summer

- financial times – fashion article every month

- find three key images

- find what context they were made for, if they were made for an exhibition or article etc

- find articles or reviews from those exhibitions if there in magazines usually the person who wrote the review would have had an interview with the photographer before hand.

Google scholar papers…

Key word

Make use of the index page of each book

question : Fashion photography, what influence does the western world have on the eastern and vice versa