fashion as photograph page 150

unknown models may now be linked to a newly working models identification to gain the surplus value of that models success. not all models however are framed in these ways. the need and recognition of nationilised shorthand depends on the models racial background and the market that he or she is working in. for example, in new york national descriptors say very little about asian models. while i was at the agency, we recieved only a handful of castings specifically requesting japanese, chinese,or korean models. when we did they were exclusivly from either non-us clients or for use in non-us media. black and white model casting requests on the other hand were rife with eleborate colour descriptions and national modifiers bound up in racial hierarchies. whether it was london beat, brown skinned bollywood or black black black these requests quickly indexed general facial features, skintone, hair type and colour. in addition to the market and racial background of the model, the clients own identity also determined the use of these terms. while learning to book, i was coached about certain client's racial and sexual preferences. agents use this kind of industry gossip garnered from models debriefings and other types of buzz - alongside careful study of clients' visual work to match models to clients. in this way the development of racial, national and regional types in the casting process is highly contingent, and can shift from one client to the next.